Article by Capt. Steve Katz
Before we get to this week’s topic, a recent job reminded me that not all navigation lighting is correct, even on a new boat. Be sure to check that your boats navigational lighting is working properly and is correct for your size and type of boat as required by USCG regulations. This is not just for the USCG inspections but, more importantly, for other boaters to see you.
By now your boat is probably in the water for the season, or ready to be launched from the trailer or dry storage. Starting the engine for the first time after a cold winter is a great feeling if you are prepared.
The boat’s batteries are the first system you should check prior to starting your engines and getting the other systems running. Whether big or small, conventional, AGM or Gel, all batteries have a lifespan that is often shortened by variables in the marine environment. The best procedure is to fully charge your batteries and test each battery independently to be sure it is ready for another season of use. The most popular testing methods are the load tester and the newer technology of conductance testing. Both testers are usually hand held devices that give an indication on the health of the battery. Some retailers offer this service for their customers at no cost or just a minimal fee. If you have the heavy 8D batteries (+150 lbs) in your boat, you might want to have a technician bring the tester to the boat! If there are any doubts on the health of the battery, replace it!
Remember that batteries connected in series or parallel to form a “bank” need to be replaced together to maintain a balanced system. The cost of a new battery is less than a ruined fishing day or a tow back to the dock.
Additionally, batteries have a date code sticker or stamp on the case, indicating the month and year of manufacture. If the battery is more than three years old it’s time to think about replacement. Don’t forget about your engine alternator and shore power chargers. These systems help keep your batteries charged and ready.
Are you ready to start your engine(s)? A basic inspection after storage should include, fuel lines, coolant and water hoses, exhaust hoses, accessory belts and fluid levels. Don’t forget the marine gear (transmission). Before starting the engine, examine your engine room or under the cowling if you have an outboard. Look for any unusual debris, fluids, salt buildups, stains, etc. from last season or winter storage. These could be clues to a current issue or future problem that can be addressed before it becomes an emergency.
Impellers: yes those vaned rubber wheels that pump seawater to cool the engine, from the smallest outboard to large diesel inboards. They all work the same way. A flexible impeller deforms while rotating inside an elliptical housing, drawing seawater into the housing and moving it to the discharge hose. Popular problems are when the flexible rubber wears out, pieces break off the impeller, overheating melts the rubber, housing wears and seals/ bearings wear out. Ok, so when should I change my impeller? Ask this question on the docks and you will hear lots of interesting answers. Some boaters change their (engine) impellers every season no matter how “good” it looks, some change impellers based on engine hours and there are some who change them only after a failure. Sometimes the pump’s housing, seals and bearings may have to be replaced along with the impeller, depending on the condition.
Admittedly, not all impellers are easy to change and therefore often neglected. If you or your mechanic is replacing a failed impeller, be sure to remove all remaining pieces of impeller from the cooling system. These small pieces can restrict the water flow. Backflushing the system may be all that is needed to remove the bits of rubber left behind.
It is a good idea to start the season with clean fuel filters for both gas and diesel engines. Most marine engines have a primary and secondary fuel filter. The primary filter is the first filter that the fuel flows to on the way to the engine and is usually mounted in the engine room or under deck in an outboard application. The secondary filter is usually mounted on or very close to the engine. Most often the secondary filter is finer (capturing smaller particles), while the primary filter is coarser (capturing the larger particles). The primary filter is usually less expensive and easier to change.
Diesel fuel can become contaminated very easily with moisture and biological matter and both contaminants can quickly clog clean fuel filters. Gasoline can also be contaminated by moisture and, if using E10 Gasoline (10% ethanol blended fuel), it can be a BIG problem. Fortunately, non-ethanol fuel is readily available in our area and is highly recommended for gasoline engines. During extended periods of non use, condensation can form inside the fuel tanks, adding water to your fuel. Most good filtering systems for diesel fuels will remove this water. While there are varying philosophies regarding the micron size of the primary filter, the point is to change them often, before they fill with water or clog. With ethanol gasoline, this water causes a breakdown in the fuel mixture (phase separation) and creates even more problems.
This is a lengthy topic and can’t be covered in detail here but there are many boating resources discussing ethanol fuels. If you have a gas engine, replace all of the fuel filters regularly and be sure you are using a 10 Micron primary filter (check with your engine manufacturer for your specific application).
Good batteries, a cool engine and clean fuel will get you on your way to your favorite fishing spot.
Captain Steve Katz is owner of Steve’s Marine Service serving Baltimore, Annapolis and Ocean City, MD.
