Article by Capt. Mark Sampson
We were heading offshore on a charter when one of my clients pointed up at the ceiling of the cabin and asked, “what do you use those fly rods for”? He thought I was kidding when I told him that at one time or another we’ve used them to catch just almost all of the local species of inshore and offshore game fish.
“You mean like bluefish and rockfish?”, he said.
“No” I replied, “I mean like bluefish, rockfish, seatrout, triggerfish, spadefish, cobia, bonito, tuna, false albacore, dolphin, king mackerel, sharks, jacks, shad, sea robins, sea bass, and flounder – just to name a few.”
“Sea bass and flounder on fly tackle?”, he said in disbelief. “Come on, you’re kidding, right?”
I wasn’t kidding, and I wasn’t surprised at his skepticism either. A decade ago, the rapid growth in the popularity of saltwater fly-fishing had me figuring that at least by now most saltwater anglers would know full-well about the effectiveness of modern fly tackle on saltwater game fish. But it isn’t so. These days, just as much as ever before, it seems that the vast majority of saltwater anglers are completely unaware of what can be done with a fly rod.
Mention fly-fishing and many folks will immediately think of a guy in hip-boots casting to trout in a mountain stream. Bring up saltwater fly-fishing and the image might shift to that of the shallow water tarpon and bone fishing seen on the outdoor TV channels. But local fly-addicts know that fly-fishing opportunities around Delmarva are not limited only to the well-known species like rockfish and bluefish. From inshore midgets like spot or hickory shad, to offshore giants like tuna and sharks, fly-fishermen are bounded only by their imagination and their commitment to accept and overcome the inherent challenges of the sport.
When image and reality meet the result is an awareness that saltwater fly-fishing is not destined to be enjoyed by only an “elite” group of anglers. Folks are learning that the sport is not difficult to learn, need not be expensive to get started in, and can be used to effectively catch almost any fish that swims, from croaker to tuna! And, perhaps most importantly, fly-fishing allows anglers the opportunity to milk an extra level challenge and excitement from fishing opportunities that might otherwise be considered rather routine. Experienced anglers know that a two-pound bluefish hooked on a chunk of bait is “just another bluefish”, but when they take that same fish on fly tackle they’ll typically come away with a much greater feeling of accomplishment, like the difference between bow and gun hunting; taking game with a bow may not always be more difficult - but it’s always more satisfying.
Certainly learning to pitch a fly is more involved, and takes more practice than learning to cast spinning tackle. But it’s not as tough as some may think. Under the right conditions, fly tackle can be effectively used to take fish inshore, offshore, from boats, docks, jetties and even in the surf. I expect that the only place someone can’t use fly tackle around here is from atop the Rt. 50 Bridge. One advantage of saltwater fly casting over fresh water is that for the most popular species such as stripers and bluefish, a delicate and perfect presentation is not usually a prerequisite to getting a hook-up. When conditions are right, it can often be just a matter of “getting it out there” 20 to 30-feet and you’ll get a bite.
Actually, the strength and direction of the wind is typically the biggest hurdle for most beginner fly casters to get over. But armed with knowledge of a few techniques, a little practice, and proper boat positioning, even a breezy day can be fun and productive. Through time and practice, beginner fly casters will get the “feel” for the way it all should work, and eventually be able to catch fish even in difficult conditions.
Many beginner fly casters opt first to fish with and learn from an experienced guide. A few hours on the water with someone who knows what they’re doing can fast-track an upcoming fly fisherman to proficiency in the sport. A good fishing guide will have the right equipment, patience and ability to teach the basics of fly casting and possibly hook their clients up to fish on their first day. Unfortunately, while there’s a lot of captains and guides here on Delmarva who can put fishermen onto fish, there’s very few who know much about fly-fishing themselves, let alone have the equipment and knowledge needed to properly train someone how to use it. But fly-guides are out there and with just a little Internet searching and asking around, they can be found.
Of course, paying a guide isn’t the only way to get started in fly-fishing. Most of the folks I know who are passionate about the sport are ever so willing to share their knowledge and assistance with upcoming fly anglers. One way to meet other fly anglers is to get hooked up with a fly-fishing organization. Here on Delmarva we have the Saltwater Fly Anglers of Delaware (www.sfaod.com) which is made up of a really great group of anglers dedicated to helping other get involved in fly-fishing.
Becoming proficient at fly-fishing requires knowledge of casting, retrieving, hooking and landing techniques as well as an understanding of the tackle itself. While space won’t allow me to go into detail about techniques, I can at least give a quick synopsis of the tackle.
Fly rods are typically distinguished by “weights” (5-weight, 6-weight, 7-weight, etc.) starting at 1-weight and going up to about 16-weight, the lower the number the lighter the rod. Anglers will usually use 1-6 weight rods for freshwater fishing, 7-9 weight rods for heavy freshwater or light saltwater fishing and 10-16 weight rods for heavier saltwater fishing. Most rods used in the saltwater will be about 9-feet in length while lighter weight rods designed for freshwater use will often be shorter by a foot or two. Around here, anglers fishing for inshore species such as bluefish, stripers, flounder, seatrout, etc. will usually go with 8 or 9-weight rods. That size tackle will also handle modest size offshore species such as small sharks, bonito, medium size dolphin, king and Spanish mackerel. Rods in the 10 to 12-weight class are better suited for larger fish like cobia, false albacore, big dolphin and wahoo. Heavier rods in the 14 and 16-weight range are usually reserved for billfish, big sharks and tuna.
Fly reels usually come in sizes that are rated to rods in two or three weight classes 4-6, 7-9, 10-12, etc., and in an array of prices that reflect features, construction, and quality. The least expensive reels are usually designed for small fish in freshwater because they don’t need a drag system or corrosion proof construction. In this case hooked fish are usually “stripped” in by hand and if the fish makes a run, any needed drag is provided by lightly squeezing the line as it runs through the fingers.
Obviously, saltwater fly reels need corrosion protection and because they might also be involved in battles with decent size fish they require a smooth drag system that can apply a consistent pressure when a fish makes a long run. Since saltwater fly reels will often be loaded with 300-600 yards of 20-30 pound braided-type line as backing and then topped with a length of fly line, a good drag is important when you are fighting a fish “on the reel” by cranking the handle to retrieve line rather than the stripping technique so often used in freshwater.
When it comes to choosing a fly line, there are a lot of options, and choices are made as a result of the type of fishing anglers expect to be doing. Fly lines aren’t cheap ($25 - $80) but they can last for many fishing seasons. Fly lines are typically 90 to 110 feet long and are rated by weight in the same way as fly rods. While most anglers will use lines that match the weight of the rod, some will opt to use a line weight higher or lower than that of the rod for specific applications.
There are three basic categories of fly lines; floating, intermediate, and sinking. As its name implies, “floating” fly line floats, and therefore is typically used when anglers want their flies to stay at or very close to the surface. “Intermediate” lines sink very slowly and allow flies to be fished a few feet below the surface. True “sinking” lines are often rated by “grains” that indicate how heavy they are, which translates into how fast they sink. A 250-grain line might have a sink-rate of 5-inches per second while a 600-grain line might sink at 7.5-inches per second. Depending upon the current and the design of the fly, the sink-rate and the maximum depth a fly can be fished can vary quite a bit, but given the right conditions it’s possible to effectively fish flies to depths of 60-feet or more – thus dispelling the myth that successful fly-fishing requires that the fish be feeding near the surface.
Unlike conventional tackle where sinkers or the weight or action of a lure or bait is used to gain depth, flies usually have very little weight of their own and must, therefore, be pulled down by the fly line itself. Delmarva fly anglers will certainly have times when a floating line is the best choice, but generally an intermediate line or a sinking line from 250 to 450-grains will do the best job of pulling flies down to the strike zone of most of our inshore or offshore fish.
It’s not uncommon for anglers to have more than one fly line with them to accommodate whatever opportunities might come along. This can be done by having a second spool for their reel that’s filled with a different line, bringing along two or more fly rods or simply having another line or two in their tackle box that they can spool-on if needed.
One end of the fly line is attached directly to the backing and the other end is tied to the leader. Leaders might be as short as 3-feet when used with sinking lines or as long as 12-feet when floating lines or spooky fish are involved. Around here, for inshore and offshore fly-fishing, I usually use leaders of about 8-feet in length. Saltwater leaders are usually tapered with the thick end closest to the fly line and thin end closest to the fly. This taper helps the line to “turn over” (straighten out) at the end of the cast, just before it lands in the water. Knotless tapered leaders can be purchased and knotted tapered leaders can be easily made by joining three sections of leader material of decreasing test together such as #50/#30/#15.
Fly fishermen use the term “tippet” or “class tippet” to describe the last bit of leader before the fly. The tippet is basically the weakest link in the entire line/leader system. For instance, if a 50/30/15 leader is used, the tippet would be the 15-pound test section. Tippets are usually less then two feet in length. IGFA requires that tippets be at least 15-inches to qualify for fly rod world records. If the target species has a rough or toothy mouth, anglers will often tie a short “shock” or “bite” tippet of heavy mono or wire leader between the fly and the class tippet. IGFA rules allow no more than 12-inches of shock tippet.
Flies come in literally thousands of “patterns”, some of which are tied to closely resemble very specific fish, crabs, shrimp, squid or other forms of natural bait in the hopes that a bite will result even after close inspection from the most discriminating predator. Other patterns more loosely imitate the color, shape, size or action of various types of bait in the area and rely mostly on fish hitting them as a result of a reaction strike.
Beginning fly anglers may find the selection of flies rather daunting and not know where to start. Fortunately, there are a few very basic patterns that will catch a large variety of fish under somewhat normal conditions. These patterns include: the “Clouser Minnow” which has a look and action similar to a bucktail jig, the “Lefty’s Deceiver” which suspends well in the water and can be fish very fast or slow and the “Surf Candy” which is a good representation of a silverside, sand eel or small minnow. These patterns come in many different sizes and color combinations (chartreuse and white is the most popular) and anglers will want to have a nice variety to choose from when they’re out on the water, since flies get torn-up easily by striking fish.
A big turn-off to a lot of potential fly-fishers is the cost of the equipment. Step in to any well appointed fly shop and it’s easy to see why with rods starting at $350 and reels going for $300 and up. Well worth the price if (or when) one gets bitten hard by the fly-fishing bug. While most will agree that it’s best to learn with top-line equipment, if spending that kind of money is preventing someone from getting into the sport - I say “go cheap”!
For less than $200, even saltwater anglers can get set up with a starter outfit that typically includes rod, reel, line, leader, and probably even a simple instruction booklet. Inexpensive fly tackle may not provide the optimal performance and lifetime service of the pricey stuff, but it’s good enough to take most small to medium size inshore fish and permits new anglers to get aquatinted with the sport before making a major financial commitment.
Contrary to what many might think of fly-fishing, the sport does not necessarily translate to “light-tackle” fishing. Fly-fishermen these days have at their disposal sturdy hi-tech rods and reels with silky smooth drags and spools that hold many hundreds of yards of backing. Hook a tuna on a hefty 12-14 weight fly rod and you’ll probably be landing that fish in about the same amount of time that someone else might if they were using standard conventional 50-pound tackle.
It’s no handicap to be hooked-up to a big fish on modern fly tackle, most of the challenge (and fun) of fly-fishing comes to anglers as they try to overcome the obstacles that prevent them from presenting their fly to the fish in a realistic and tantalizing fashion. Strong wind or currents, depth of the water, obstacles such as floating grass or debris, rocks, piers, or other structures both in front of and behind the angler, not to mention the limited distance that the fly can be cast (90-100 feet maximum) requires proper equipment and a lot of attention to casting techniques.
Choosing to use fly tackle over conventional tackle is akin to hunters who use bows rather than guns. It’s not that the equipment or techniques are necessarily “better”, it’s just that the challenges are different and sportsmen who meet those challenges and are able to best their quarry can take pride in accomplishing goals that others may not even know are possible to achieve.
Captain Mark Sampson is an outdoor writer and captain of the charter boat “Fish Finder”, docked at the Ocean City Fishing Center.
