Article by Capt. Steve Katz
Getting Your Boat Ready for the Season – Below the Waterline
By Capt. Steve Katz
Spring is here and we are all anxious to get back to fishing and boating. The springtime weather is the motivation for most of us to work on those pre-season boating rituals. It is best to have a plan to work on these projects in proper order, whether you have large sportfish or a center console on a trailer. Start with all items below the water line.
Check the condition of all underwater thru-hull fittings, are check that they sealed properly to the hull; evidence of leaking should be investigated now. Operate the seacock; it should open and close easily (The American Yacht and Boat Council - ABYC H-27 standards requires all thru-hull fittings below the waterline to be equipped with a seacock to stop the water flow in the event of a failure).
Check the condition of the attached hoses, clamps, pumps and anything else directly connected. Saltwater, age and heat can break-down plastics and rubber over time, look carefully for damage. When equipped, clean and inspect the sea strainer assembly and the inner basket. Be diligent with your inspection. During the winter, accumulated water could enter these areas, freeze and expand, then crack metal and plastic parts that are hard to find until you put the boat back into the water.
Next, check all the bilge pumping systems. This includes float switches, electric bilge pumps, engine operated “crash pump” valves, mounting hardware, discharge hoses, wiring, switches and indicator lights. Let’s try to avoid that funny feeling that you get when heading through the inlet one dark morning and see your bilge pump/high water alarm. There are many components in bilge pumping systems that need to be diligently inspected. In my experience, the wiring junction in the bilge (where the float switch and bilge pump connections are made) is a common problem area. Most factory installed bilge pump systems have an indicator light that is easily observed at the main helm station. This is an important item; it can tell you if the pump is on or should be on and pumping water over the side due to high bilge water. If this indicator light is working properly it can act as a warning system to let you know there may be a problem. If your boat has enclosed accommodation compartments, ABYC H-22 standards require a high water alarm system – this is an important safety item.
While the boat is still out of the water, inspect the condition of the hull; look for cracks, chips, blisters or voids in the fiberglass.
Repair any damage now; water can enter the fiberglass and cause expensive problems if ignored. If you have anti-fouling bottom paint, check that the paint not flaking and is covering the necessary areas.
Most ablative bottom paints can remain out of the water for the winter season and go back into the water without losing its effectiveness (multi-season). An ablative paint wears like a bar of soap, both the paint and anti-fouling properties wear together. Paint manufacturers recommend 2-3 coats of ablative paint; if you think the paint has worn away (as it should) you may need to re-apply using the same type of paint. A modified epoxy or hard bottom paint should be re-repainted each season if the boat is removed from the water for storage, or when the anti-fouling properties have been diminished, leaving just the paint behind. Over a period of time, hard bottom paint can build-up excessively on the hull and may require heavy sanding or other removal process to reduce the expired paint and restore your boats speed.
Remember most bottom paints are not compatible with metal surfaces; you will need to use a different type of antifouling paint, like Trilux 33 or similar. Also, standard bottom paints should not be applied over depth transducers. You should use a special antifouling paint for transducers.
Now that we are out from under the boat, let’s take a look at the hull. This is a great time to clean wash and wax the hull. This will certainly make your boat look good while protecting the gel coat or paint finish for the season. Check the condition of the rub rail – it is called that for a reason - damage can occur in this area in the course of docking, fueling etc. This rub rail area is often the seam between the deck and hull of a production boat. Damage in this area could allow water to enter the boat and cause problems. Check the thru–hull fittings along the hull and transom sides; these are usually used for discharge of water from various systems, such as bilge pumps, air conditioning, fish boxes, live wells, sinks and other gray water discharge. Many of these fittings are plastic and degrade sooner than expected.
If you own an outboard powered boat, check the engine mounting at the transom or bracket. Be sure all attachment fittings are tight, all hoses, lines and connections are in good condition. Check the steering cylinders, hoses and attaching hardware. Grease all areas as recommended by the engine and steering manufacturer. If you didn’t do it in the fall, now is the time to change the lower unit gear oil, check and or change the water pump and perform all other engine maintenance that can only be completed while the boat is out of the water. Be sure to check or replace the zincs on the engine, especially the ones that are under the engine mount.
If you have an inboard boat, check the running gear, shaft, cutlass bearings, shaft seal, rudder bearings, rudder seals, trim tabs, bow thruster, engine/generator intakes, raw water intakes and, of course, the zincs.
Doing these tasks before the boat goes back into the water will make for a much easier start of the season. Next, let’s get started on the tasks that can be completed in the water.
See you at the dock!
Captain Steve Katz is owner of Steve’s Marine Service serving Baltimore, Annapolis and Ocean City, MD.
